Karpniki: A getaway between forests and lakes
Tucked away between Poznań and the Baltic Sea, deep within sprawling pine forests and resting gently on the shores of a tranquil lake, lies a beautiful wooden chalet surrounded by charming outbuildings. Welcome to "Karpniki," warmly hosted by Mr. and Mrs. Sloniewski.
A former environmental protection teacher at the technical high school in Gniezno, Barbara Sloniewska is a highly refined and cultured woman. Endlessly attentive, she ensures everything runs smoothly with profound kindness. Back in 1994, she and her husband embarked on a bold agritourism venture, building a magnificent chalet that comfortably accommodates around ten guests. They offer full-board stays, serving fresh, delicious produce sourced locally or straight from their own garden, which sits right outside our room.
Most of their guests are Polish, coming here to fish, forage for wild mushrooms, hike, or simply recharge their batteries. Meals are shared at a communal table in a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. The decor is unpretentious, and the interactions are refreshingly direct—you immediately feel like a visiting friend rather than a paying customer.
I admittedly struggled a bit to keep up with the conversation, as my Polish is limited to a few polite phrases like dziekuje, dzien dobry, do widzenia, dobranoc, jak sie panienka czuje, and, of course, smacznego. Thankfully, Agnieszka, who speaks near-perfect French with a charming Slavic accent, occasionally translated parts of the lively discussions. But my goodness, Polish is a remarkably complex language for a Belgian-French-Greek traveler!
At 65, our tireless hostess shows no signs of slowing down and has grand plans for her dom gościnny (guesthouse), including a dining room expansion, new guest rooms, and beautiful stables for the horses. She mentioned that her guesthouse is considered slightly expensive for the region, though the prices seemed incredibly reasonable to me given the hearty meals and the breathtaking environment. German neighbors, boasting much higher purchasing power, frequently visit for the weekend; they invariably pay in cash but speak no more Polish than I do.
In exchange for our wonderful stay, her daughter and son-in-law will visit L'Etoile next year. In the meantime, I used my laptop to show Barbara pictures of my guesthouse and the surrounding French countryside. France, which seemed impossibly distant just a few years ago, now feels much closer and far more accessible thanks to Poland's entry into the European Union, fostering a profound sense of connection within a shared community.
The sky is a brilliant, piercing blue—a sight I’ve come to expect whenever I visit Poland. However, the biting, glacial wind sweeps through; one can't help but wonder if it blew straight in from Siberia. Nature remains wonderfully preserved here. The lakes are teeming with fish, and a profound, inviting silence reigns in the woods, making you long for a peaceful afternoon nap. In these vast, 60,000-square-kilometer pine and birch forests, more than a few mushroom foragers have lost their way. Human presence is sparse, marked only by the occasional logging trail or isolated havens like Karpniki. Bogdan Sloniewski had to pick us up from the tiny village of Kwiejce, navigating an unmarked dirt track to finally reach their hidden sanctuary.
Tomorrow morning calls for an early wake-up to accompany two passionate fishermen from Gliwice in southern Poland. They visit every year and cherish their quiet routines. They are prosperous businessmen seeking to reconnect with their roots and share intimate, peaceful moments with their partners.
Navigating the heavy iron boat proved to be quite a challenge. Pushing against the current toward the small, open sluice gate using only a long wooden pole thoroughly exhausted our city-dwelling fisherman, who struggled mightily to reach open water. Fishing has never been my forte, but I must admit that in such excellent company, and on another stunningly sunny autumn day, I thoroughly enjoyed being swept away in their aquatic paradise.
Pigeons coo softly, the dogs rest calmly, and horses graze peacefully in the corral. Poland seems to be catching its breath after the long, grueling years of its turbulent history. The small village shop stands as a stark reminder of the communist era, when people would queue for hours just to share two bananas and a loaf of poor-quality bread. "Yes, in Poland now we can finally breathe!" Agnieszka tells me with relief, even though she is only 26. People can now look beyond just surviving today, daring to plan for tomorrow.
This is my second visit to this beautiful country, and I feel remarkably at home here. The people are wonderfully welcoming, spontaneous, and brimming with vibrant energy. The European community undoubtedly grew richer on that historic May 1st in 2004!
Karpniki, Guesthouse and table d'hôtes, Barbara & Bogdan Sloniewscy, Kwiejce 35, Chelst -
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